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View from my room |
We landed not at Haneda, but at Narita airport. Narita
was opened to traffic in 1978 after Haneda became overcrowded and facing
problem relating to expansion. The flight from Shanghai took about an hour and
a half. From the clock inside the terminal I noticed that Tokyo was an hour
ahead of Shanghai. We soon headed for the city 63 kilometres away in a shiny regular-sized bus. Outside it was a contrast from
China with latest Japanese cars zipping past, their bodies sparkling in the sun
as if given a vigorous spit-and-polish. After some time as I looked out of the
window I found the bus climbing a flyover that spiralled on to become a
multi-tiered affair and I could see down below at other two levels cars
speeding up and down. In front I could see a nondescript truck climbing the
flyover, its tail-pipe emitting no smoke indicating its perfect combustion
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Same view during the day |
and
engine efficiency.
We were put up at the Tokyo Grand Hotel in the area
known as Shibakoen. It was perhaps a 3-star affair and each one of us was given
a single room. The room was small but the management of space was to be seen to
be believed. Every conceivable comfort had been provided in those 120-odd
sq.ft. In that small area there was even a television set which had 8 colour channels.
In 1982 we had only one B&W channel, the second coming later. The bath was
small but it was neatly planned with no clutter despite a small plastic tub in
which one could only stand to take a shower. Plastic was optimally used from
bath tub to walls. Japan is short of space and, hence, even their houses are
small with the available space optimally used. The room overlooked a wide road
with a baseball ground on one of its sides.
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The Bullet Train speeding away |
Having checked in I had some time before the next
engagement. I wanted to have the film rolls exposed in China to be processed.
Taking directions from the Reception I headed to the studio which was within
walking distance. Colour film rolls – for slides and negatives – were kept
outside the shop in a heap in a basket. One could pick up any and leave the
money nearby in a container. The same was the case with pocket-sized
calculators which were very scarce in India till then. The gent behind the counters
took all my details and said that the prints would be ready by evening. I was
surprised as in Delhi one had to deposit the rolls at Kodak on Janpath who
would send them to Bombay. The films would come processed with prints only
after three weeks. Here it was enormously different. Obviously automated
printing of colour-negatives had already commenced in Japan. It came to India
later in mid 1980s. Those who have grown up in the digital era wouldn't know about all this.
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Demonstrators passing by |
The first engagement was an introductory session with
the senior officials of the Ministry who informed us of the schedule and the
itinerary for the fortnight that we would be spending in Japan. While we would
be looking at the postal facilities and doing some sites in Tokyo we were also
to visit Yokohama, Osaka, Kyoto and Nara. In the process we were told we would
be having a ride on the Bullet Train, till then a technological marvel and at
that time the fastest in the world. At the inaugural, I also saw for the first
time the wireless microphones. The absence
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At the totally computerised Nihonbashi Post Office |
of a tangle of wires on the floor
made me look around when I saw the amplifier in one corner. Japan, after all, was
then the technological superpower.
Soon after returning from the Ministry of
Communications I headed for the photographer. As soon as he saw me he said he
had delivered the rolls at the Hotel. I asked "to whom?" He said to
the Reception. I asked "payment?” He said they made it. This was incredible.
Thanking him I returned to the Hotel and checked with the Reception and they
gave me the fat packet and said I could pay anytime I wished. Thoroughly
overwhelmed I paid for the films there and then. Things have been made
incredibly smooth by evolving a work-culture that ensures conveniences for the
people.
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At Ginza |
In Japan the emphasis was on showing their processes
which happened to be different from China with more technology inducted into
them. We were taken to their computer centre where we had to leave our shoes
outside. The machines, dust-sensitive and huge like cupboards, were lined up
against the walls. Surely, primitive in comparison to today’s progressively
miniaturized versions, these were being made use of for various operations.
Nihonbashi post office was a totally computerized
office with minimal manual operations. Everything, from booking of a mail piece
to its sorting and bagging for destination moved on the basis of computer
programmes that were guided by optical character readers (OCRs). OCRs were
extensively used so much so that the Japanese authorities had even printed
postal stationery amenable to
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The highrises of Shinjuku |
processing by them. At that time the OCRs in
Japan could read hand-written digits in eight different styles. Watching the
machines in operations many a time one felt that as if an invisible
supernatural hand was behind the moving trays, bags in small trolleys that
would travel on rails to predetermined destinations guided remotely by
computers.
The OCRs were also in use at metro stations in ticket
dispensers. The machines could read the currency notes shoved in and spit out a
desired railway ticket and also drop the change in a tray. At the
Communications Museum I saw for the first time facsimile machines. Unlike the
current tiny ones, these were of the size of a smallish refrigerator, say of
150 litres. I signed on a piece of paper and it was run through the machine
only to yield a copy from another one kept a few metres away.
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Ginza at night |
Japanese technology, particularly in the area of
consumer electronics, was moving towards its peak. The country was still in
manufacturing – the shift to China came much later. Soni, Sansui, National,
Sharp etc. were household names in India but their products were largely
unavailable. The market was starving for them and was partially fed by
smuggling. And, there in Tokyo in the area called Akihabara electronic goods
were stacked up in shop after shop from floor to the roof. Until then I had
never seen video recorders/players, food processors and such like. It was
mindboggling. That’s when one realised the differences between an
industrialized rich nation and an un-developed country. Ours was a closed
economy, trying to be self-reliant without much capability – and a (pseudo) socialist
republic to boot.
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Ginza as an open air huge cafe |
Japan had already wrested leadership from Germany in the area of
photographic equipment. Gone were the days when Exaktas, Leicas, Agfas, Rollies
used to call the shots. The quality products from Asahi Pentax, Nikon, Minolta,
Konica and so on were a rage, I dare say, even in China. Even I had acquired
from my sister in the US a Minolta SLR with a 50mm lens with f stop of 1.4. The Japanese later broke
the “zero barrier” making the lens incredibly powerful.
Our consultant, Pat Kearney, was a professional photograph and
used to shoot regattas held in Hobart in Tasmania, his home town. While he was
looking for a telescopic long lens I wanted a few accessories. I joined him in the quest for
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A Tokyo temple |
some photographic equipment. We had
to go to Shinjuku, the commercial centre, where a reputed shop dealing in
cameras and other photographic stuff was suggested to us. We took the Metro
from close to our Hotel. It was my first metro ride. We in India did not have
metros nor was there any in Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Singapore or China - the
countries I had been to. The Shinjuku metro station was probably a junction of
several lines and was therefore huge. It had seemingly another city underground
with shops, restaurants, tailors, beauty parlours and what have you. People
were relaxing, sipping coffee or having beer. The whole place was so well lit
that one really did not miss daylight. It was just as crowded as perhaps the
city over-ground. A similar atmosphere I later saw in Hibiya City where we used
to change to go to Ginza. Once I even walked right through the underground
passageway to Ginza from Hibiya; it was like going past an entire township.
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Another view of Ginza at night |
Yudobashi in Shinjuku with a crowd of tall high-rises
was not a very big shop in its two or three floors yet was into retailing
almost all brands of Japanese cameras. That is why the salesmen would raise a
racket as soon as one entered the shop inviting the visitor to their respective
shop. It was more like the meat market we had in Gwalior where one would be
greeted with a chorus of shouts of invites as soon as one entered it. Yudobashi
was indeed a great shop and one would find every conceivable camera, lens or
accessories there.
After buying an
aperture-priority Minolta SLR body and a few accessories I came out and sat on
a thoughtfully provided bench to have a smoke. Street lights had come on. Soon
I noticed a salesman in his tunic of blue serge trousers, a light blue
half-sleeved shirt and a peak cap came out with a broom in hand and started
sweeping the area in front of the shop. It was perhaps close
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Animated mannequins of Ginza |
to closing time.
It seems everyone in Japan sweeps clean their respective business areas –
inside and outside – before closing for the day. That is why even early in the
morning the city is clean and litter-free. It is so different from our non-functional
methods regarding cleanliness in public places.
A swamp that was filled up way back in the 17th
Century to create what later became Ginza is now an upscale commercial and
business hub with department stores, boutiques, restaurants and coffee shops.
Mitsukoshi, an institution then of chain stores, had its outlet there and I
bought from its huge store a lovely-looking orange and black Silver Reed
portable typewriter. One would always
see crowds milling in the area, particularly in the evenings and at night it is
a veritable fairyland with coloured neon illuminating billboards of every
well-know Japanese firm. A place ideal for window shopping, I saw animated
mannequins swinging their hands holding high-end bags. There is nothing that
was not available there. Perhaps on Sundays, a main thoroughfare is blocked for
people to come and relax with their families. The cafeterias put their chairs
and tables out on the street. It was almost like a fair.
The host administration gave us a fabulous evening at
the Imperial Hotel. Located close to the Imperial Palace in the neighbourhood
of Ginza, it was a
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At the Imperial Hotel |
luxurious place and looked every bit like that. Food was
mostly Japanese with some Western stuff thrown in. What I liked best was tempura, a dish of battered sea-food and
sake, the Japanese wine made out of
rice. Quite curiously, it is taken warm.
Since there
were no women in our group, wives of Japanese officials were not invited.
Instead they had hostesses – young girls in elaborate hair-do, wearing
traditional kimonos that generally were not seen on Tokyo streets. During a
conversation with one of then I was told that they were all students and had
volunteered to be hostesses for the evening mostly to brush up their English. I
thought it was a very good idea!
The Japanese are very traditional and polite people.
Bowing, for instance is
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A side street behind the Tokyo Grand Hotel |
very important and the deeper the bow the greater is
the respect shown. At a shop the lady gave me a deep bow and I too had to bow
not once but twice to enable her to straighten up. Likewise, “arigato” is a much used word. The word
conveys thanks and it is used far too frequently. Japanese people have become westernised
in many ways but the hold of their culture and traditions continue to be very
strong.