Laxmi Narain Temple, Chamba (from internet) |
In
the month of October of 1977 my wife and I decided to take in Chamba and its
surroundings. Chamba is in the Himachal on the banks of Ravi, one of the famed
five rivers of Punjab and a tributary of the Indus. Situated at a height of a
little more than 3000 ft. it has a very friendly and pleasant climate, more so
because we happened to be there in October. The monsoons had withdrawn and the
place was green with clear blue skies and one could hear the River, rejuvenated
and roaring, making its way down to the plains.
View of Chamba from the open frounds |
Chamba
is a historical place and finds mention in ancient texts. Its kingdom changed
many hands. The district was well protected by the high Himalayas and many of
its temples have survived, some of them that are more than 1000 years old have
living deities and are being used for worship till
today. It is a temple town
with numerous important temples. The Laxmi Narayan temple is the most visited.
It has that typical Chamba architecture with wooden chhatries topped by shikharas.
We visited it but unfortunately did not take a shot
In the open grounds |
Chamba,
like all hill capitals, has a large ground where people come and perambulate or
just hang around. We too did so sitting out in the sun and could watch the
distant landscape of greenery and buildings – some modern, some
historical. It
was a pleasure doing nothing in the warmth of the sun.
Chamba art (from internet) |
Chamba
also is known for its style of painting that originated in the 18th
Century during the reign of one Raj Singh, one of the popular rulers of Chamba.
The Guler-Chamba style of painting evolved and flourished during his reign.
Drawing from nature as also from the Hindu epics they were greatly influenced
by the Mughals and found expression in murals and miniatures.
KHAJJIYAR
Khajjiyar |
While
in Chamba we took a day trip to a place called Khajjiyar, a place that was
highly recommended by friends. The three-hour painful journey in a ramshackle
bus over a very bad road was tiresome. At places the road was so narrow that
while negotiating a hairpin bend one of the rear wheels would go out and away
from the road and get suspended in thin air over a thousand feet of fall. The
driver was remarkable in his composure and took the passengers safely to more
than 6000 ft. high hill station of Khajjiyar.
All
the tiredness and anxiety of the fearsome journey disappeared as we saw the
green meadows surrounded by deep green thick forests of
Khajjiyar. The place
had very little construction and that too at the far end from where we gor off
the bus. The meadows presented the
classical picture-postcard scene of sheep and horses grazing on the sumptuous
grass. It reminded me of my first view of Gulmarg in the summer of 1957 as my
elder Forests od Khajjiyar |
Khajjiyar
presented a fabulous view. The entire meadow was flooded by a sharp and bright sunshine. The cold at 6000 ft
in October was neutralized by the heat of the sun. It is said that
the
Ambassador of Switzerland once visited Khajjiyar and named it Mini Switzerland.
Having spent about 8 weeks in Switzerland I think Khajjiyar (as also Kashmir) has
a raw natural beauty which one finds but rarely in Switzerland.
After
spending an hour or two we were back on the bus for the treacherous journey to
Chamba.
DALHOUSIE
Add caption |
Situated
on and around five hills, it has beautiful walks that offer spectacular views.
A road that is most frequented is the one that makes the figure ‘8’ going round
two hills. That is where one finds conifers in thick and dense growth. After a
good and long walk it was pleasure to sit out on the side of the road in front
of a tea/coffee shop. The place was run by, presumably, an Anglo-Indian who had maintained the ambiance of good looking joint you find in Europe. He made delicious Darjeeling tea that went down well with home-made pastries.
Dalhousie appeared to me to have retained till then the
old colonial flavour. It was a very attractive town. Now, one understands,
there are 600 hotels and home-stays to cater to the hordes that assemble there.
Good that we made it to Dalhousie when it was still nice and quiet.