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At Myrtle Beach |
It is generally
said of American towns that if you have seen one, you have seen them all. The
same, however, cannot be said about Charleston, South Carolina (SC). More or
less in the same league as New York,
Washington, New Orleans, or San Francisco - each with a distinct character and
flavour of its own – Charleston is, perhaps, a bit special, being one of the
oldest and historic cities of the nation.
While visiting
a young relative in North Carolina we made a foray
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Once again at Myrtle Beach |
into the south to see a bit
of the Atlantic Coast. We drove out of Cary in North Carolina (NC) one early
morning targeting Charleston. Driving through a few national and state
highways, along which lay some sprawling farms offering the passers-by
farm-fresh, delicious “pick-your-own” strawberries, we hit Myrtle Beach in
South Carolina about two hours later.
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Near the Museum |
Although a
smallish resort by American standards yet it is very well served by lodging
establishments of varied categories. We pulled into a hotel in which we had
made prior bookings on the net. It was early May and not yet quite the season;
perhaps therefore and because the booking had been made pretty much in advance,
we got a bargain, a suite with two king-sized beds. Myrtle Beach seemed to
offer everything by way of entertainment and
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Carriage hiring point |
relaxation. Blessed with expansive
beaches of white sands that are its main attraction it has much else besides.
It is dotted with scores of mini golf courses, nightclubs and casinos to offer
enough by way of recreation for a weekend. For a compulsive shopper fantastic
bargains can be had from the factory outlets of the biggies of American
industry, from Dockers to Samsonite, in the neighbouring mall.
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Remnants of an old theatre |
Next morning
after a hearty breakfast rustled up in the well-equipped kitchenette we drove
further south and came upon Patriots Point just a few kilometres north of
Charleston. Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum, one of the world’s
largest naval museums, is located in the Charleston Harbour. Some of the old
and historic US Navy ships are on display but the most important exhibit of
them all is the USS Yorktown, an aircraft carrier of World War II vintage.
Charleston is
only a 10-minute drive from Patriots Point. The town is situated where two
rivers, Ashley and Cooper, join the Atlantic. It is the seat of the Charleston
County. Originally named Charles Towne after King Charles II of England the
town was established by the English in 1670. It soon became the colonial
capital
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Charleston' period houses |
and within the next hundred years acquired the reputation of being the
richest town in the South. Built on slave labour, hundreds of thousands of
slaves passed through this city. It had a thriving slave market. Having been
the scene of the Revolutionary War, as also of the first engagement of the
Civil War, it, naturally, exudes
history. The old section of the town still
retains a quaint charm of the days gone by when it was a city of aristocratic
planters and rich
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The Market Sqaure |
merchants. There are a number of stately public buildings and
restored homes with gardens and period wrought-iron gateways.
Among the old
public buildings are the Dock Street Theatre built in the middle of the 18th
Century and the Old City Market, also built around the same time and still
functioning as such. Then there is the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, a
custom house before the War of Independence and later converted into a prison
on being captured by the British, and then again into a government building.
Today it is one of the most important historic buildings of the United States.
The West Point Garden, also known as the Battery, besides being historical is
remarkable for its beauty.
The presence of
many historic churches has given Charleston another name – the Holy City. There
are many stately homes, which
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In front of the Museum |
have since been converted into museums, the most
important of which is the Edmonston-Alston House built in the early 19th
Century. Another historic house is that of Thomas Elfe who migrated from
England in the 1740s with nothing but a skill in woodwork. The house is a
must-see for furniture and antiques buffs as it is the repository of some of
the finest furniture of 18th and 19th Centuries.
A historic city
always offers an enormous lot to see. One could go around walking or join a
walking tour. The Visitors’ Centre is finely equipped to cater to the needs of
tourists and hands out the bonus of a
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USS York Town of World War II vintage |
free trip from there to any of the
tourist sites. We promptly grabbed a ride to the downtown. Getting around in
beautiful antique-looking buses, more or less, like the streetcars of San
Francisco, or in carriages drawn by massive horses can be fun. We took a
carriage ride and were taken around old parts of the town and the Battery. In
the process we saw an architectural style typical of Charleston – from the road
one only sees a side of the house and not the front which, in fact, opens out
along the road hidden from view protecting the privacy of the inmates the
houses.
Charleston can
be an ideal base for excursions for discovering its historic neighbourhood. A
number of old plantation houses are located very close to Charleston. The Boone
Hall Plantation with its three-quarters mile drive known as the Avenue of Oaks,
bordered with trees planted in the 18th Century is the most famous
one. There are formal gardens, the original slave quarters and a cotton-ginning
house, etc. It displays the way of life of a bygone era when cotton was king
and great plantations were the backbone of the Southern economy.
Also in the Harbour is Fort Sumter, a national
monument, where the first military engagement of the American Civil War had
taken place. The Confederates attacked the Federal Garrison here in 1861. The
Fort was later blockaded by the Union naval ships, eventually to fall to them
in 1865.
Accommodation-wise
relatively cheaper, Charleston offers varied cuisine from its several eateries.
For the home-sick Indian there is the ubiquitous Indian restaurant offering a
buffet of delectable Punjabi fare for just $ 6.
Well connected
by rail, road and air, Charleston SC and its surroundings offer a slice of
American history to its visitors through its well-preserved monuments and
period houses.
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